|
This is the time of the year when a racer's thoughts
turn to next year. The brief break between seasons
provides a welcome opportunity to spend some time
thinking rather than wrenching. In that spirit,
I'd like to suggest that the decisions you make in
December will have an enormous impact on your chances of
winning races next summer.
The most
important thing a racer can do right now is to develop a
plan. Without question, the most common mistake in
racing is to buy parts impulsively without having a
clear vision of where you want to end up. The result is
often a pile of mismatched pieces that will never work
together properly.
I recognize
that not every racer has the resources to buy a complete
engine from a professional builder. Even though you may
not be able to afford a professionally built motor, it
's still important to think like a pro: You have to
select components that will work together as part of a
total combination. Think about what you expect the end
result to be: the engine's projected horsepower output,
its rpm range, and the chassis/powertrain combination.
For example, do you plan to use a tight or a loose
torque converter? The answer to that question will
affect your choice of carburetor, cylinder
|
port volume,
and cam profile.
There is
certainly no lack of information on engines, but not all
of the available information is valid. Don't be misled
by inaccurate magazine articles and armchair engine
builders touting this week's hot tip. You really don't
need - and you really don't want - a tall-deck block
with 7-inch long connecting rods and Pro Stock cylinder
heads for a 13-second bracket car. You need pieces that
are compatible - pistons that fit the cylinder heads,
valve springs that compliment the camshaft, and an
induction system that is tuned for the engine's
operating range.
Perhaps
you're just thinking about upgrading your present engine
for next year. Keep in mind that there is almost no part
you can change in an engine that does not affect some
other component. If you install a bigger cam, you've got
to have valvesprings and pushrods that will work with
the new profile. If you bolt on parts that allow the
engine to turn higher rpm, then you may need to look at
improving its lubrication system. Your old oil pan may
work perfectly at 7,000 rpm, but if you spin the motor
to 8,000, the pan may not be able to control the
increased windage. The likely results: aerated oil and
spun bearings. Almost invariably, when racers suddenly
encounter
|
